Part 1 Grooming
Assemble your first stage grooming items (a
towel, pin brush, small slicker brush, comb, conditioning spray, nail
trimmer, styptic powder, eye cleanser, cotton pads)
Click on the magic wand
to see the Grooming Tools and
Begin by laying the Pom on a towel in your lap with
the head towards your left hip and the feet kind
of angled toward your right knee. We're going to begin in the skirt ( or pants)
area. Lift the skirt hair slightly with your fingers. Now
lightly mist the coat with the
conditioning spray which you have mixed and poured into a fine mist spray bottle. We like Crown Royale Magic Touch Grooming Spray Concentrate
formula #3 (#3 is for double coated breeds). Cost about $25.00 for a 16 oz bottle. Expensive, but you mix it 1 part
concentrate to 15 parts water. This will last you for a very long time.
Now remember, we are just misting. Do not saturate! Over wetting the coat will
"set in" any tangles or snarls. Give the skirt a light quick brushing just to
move it up and out of the way, toward the head. Now part off a small 1/2" wide
section to work with at the bottom layer. Working with small parted sections at
a time, brush thru the first parted section with the '#1 All Systems 35mm pin
brush' and then go thru that same section using the course end of your 'Chris
Christensen 7.5" Fine/Extra
comb'. If you've been correctly keeping up with
the weekly line brushing, this will go fairly quickly, I'd say before your
favorite 30 minute TV. show ends. If you run into any snarls you can use the
slicker sparingly to work those out. I like to use a "#1 All Systems" brand
slicker. Because of their softness they are not as apt to break the hair, or
scratch the skin. Mist the area lightly with your Magic Touch Grooming Spray,
for each section you part off to work through.
Once you have worked up to about 1/2 of the Pom's
coat on one side, flip them over to do the other side the same way. With the
bottom half of the Pom completely snarl free, turn him so that the head is now
toward your knee and the rear feet are directed toward your hip.
Now let's line brush the upper half of the
You will continue working with small parted
sections only this time starting with the fur right behind the ears. Begin by lightly brushing the head and upper body hair back away from the face
and out of the way. Lightly mist the coat. Now part off a small section and
brush it forward, toward the nose. Mist each section lightly being careful never
to over wet the hair. After
brushing the small section, run the course end of your comb through the same
section to make sure it is snarl free before moving on to the next. This is
called "line brushing" Continue working in this manner until you have gone
through all of the coat on the upper 1/2 of the body, on one side of the dog, then turn your Pomeranian over and do the other
Finally finish by line brushing the bib,
then brush & comb the tummy
and leg feathers. Lay your dog on his back and work the bib from
the bottom of the chest area, working on up to just under the chin. Another
option is to stand the dog up on a grooming table to do the bib. Begin at the
bottom of the bib working thru 1/2" partings just as you've been doing.
With the weekly line brushing out of the way,
finish off by flushing the eyes with the sterile eye wash solution. Then squeeze
some of the sterile eye wash solution onto a clean cotton pad and clean the eye
area where tear staining and eye matter tends to collect. If you don't keep this
area clean, it could become infected and lose some of the fur near the eyes, so
don't neglect this important step!
In the areas just behind the ears, under the arms
and within the bottom layer of the skirt, I find that using the small, soft slicker brush is often
helpful to clear those areas of any tiny snarls.
sure to line brush your Pomeranian thoroughly once a week to avoid having to snip out
tangles thereby ruining the beauty of the coat! A once a week complete line
brushing and combing all the way to the skin, will keep your Pom in great
Part 2 Grooming
Time for bubbles!
Assemble your second stage grooming items at
your bathing station. ( towel shampoo, conditioner, ear cleanser, kitchen timer)
Your bathing station might be the kitchen sink or a laundry sink. (When you are finished "line brushing" it is time for some bubbles!
I recommend that the companion Pom be bathed once a month. Wet
the Pom and lather him with your favorite dog shampoo. Human shampoo's
have a more acidic pH where as canine skin is considered mildly alkaline. I have
made some suggestions on the grooming supplies page. If the skin is
flaky, itchy or odorous, due to a skin condition I would suggest Malaseb shampoo which will
combat any yeast, staph, or bacteria taking residence on your dog's skin. You can also use
<< >> shampoo on flaky
well rinse and repeat. When using an expensive shampoo such as the Malaseb,
we usually do a quick lathering with an inexpensive shampoo for the 1st lathering then use the
good stuff for the 2nd go 'round :) Follow up with a detangling conditioner such as
Coat Handlers, following the
instructions on the bottle.
With the bath and rinsing finished, wrap the Pom in a towel to absorb excess water. Mist the coat lightly
with your ever ready bottle of conditioning spray throughout the drying process.
If you don't own a powerful forced air dryer (recommended) set your blow dryer
on warm (not hot) drying the dog as you brush.
Trimming the nails!
Now it's time to tidy up the little
tyke! Unless you purchased your Pom from a breeder who has already begun routine
grooming sessions, I would recommend introducing the Pom to all this stimuli in small
doses. Consider doing the line brushing & nail trim one day. On the next day
bathe and dry him. The third day do the trimming. Soon he will take
all of this with no problem once he is used to your style of handling him during
these grooming sessions. Even the seasoned exhibitor often grooms in mini
sessions like this.
Lets start with the feet beginning with the nails. It is of paramount
importance to trim the nails every 2 weeks. It will be easier if you do this
right after the bath while the nails are still soft. Keep the styptic powder
near you on a table and have it ready to use. Never trim nails without having
the Kwik Stop styptic powder sitting right there ready to use if needed! I use
it on every nail, needed or not & I'll tell you why in a moment. Begin by opening the
container of styptic powder and dump some into the lid of the container, ready
to grab a pinch as soon as you've snipped the nail. Turn the little darling over
on his back with his head laying on your knees. You may have to shift him about
to get the most comfortable angle for clipping off those nails. First select a toe and grasp it between your fingers
applying slight pressure on the pad right behind the nail bed and on top of the
toe in front of the nail bed. Applying pressure to the toe while cutting the
nail short, then quickly putting a good pinch of Kwik Stop on the cut tip will
prevent any bleeding from getting out of hand.
If you do "quick" the nail, then while you still have the toe grasped firmly, reach
over and take a pinch of the styptic powder (Kwik Stop) and dab it
on the end of the nail BEFORE releasing the pressure. This will stop the
bleeding instantly if done correctly. For the show circuit we must keep the
nails trimmed back looking like a little cats paw. Around the house simply keep
them short enough not to hear
clicking when the dog walks on bare floors. After all imagine your nails grown out so long
they touch the floor. OUCH! If you just don't feel like you can trim nails,
please take your dog in to your vet, or to a local groomer to do this for you.
Also, anytime you have to go to the vet for a dental cleaning or other reasons, have
them clip those nails while they are already under anesthesia! If they are
already under anesthesia for some other procedure, ask the vet to cut the nail
back to just an 1/8" Then try to keep them up yourself ... or resort to
getting help. I laugh now, and you can laugh with me, but when I first
started in Poms, the hardest part was getting used to cutting nails so
With the nail clipping out of the way, lets move on to the rest of the foot.
Begin by trimming the hair from the bottom of the foot around the pads, being
extra careful not to cut the skin webbing down in between the toes, or the pads
themselves. You can use the small straight scissor or purchase a medium length
curved scissor which is what I like to use. (see
tools & products page) Be sure you buy a HAIR scissor and remember
~ be careful!
Now stand your Pom on the grooming surface.
Picking up one paw at a time,
round that hair off. That's right, get rid of those elf shoes! Trim the
hair straight across the end of the foot where the tip of the nails are, and
then just sort of round it off following the shape of the foot. The goal here is
to end up with a "cats foot" appearance. Mist the foot and leg hair, then brush the hair up
with the slicker brush. Using the small scissors trim any wild hairs on the top of the foot
or leg. Now don't give him a "haircut" here:) Just the wild hairs! Examine your work.
Stand the foot on the grooming surface and snip again if you need to. Stop when you are satisfied with the look of it.
Trimming the ears
Let us do the ears next!
You will begin by gently grasping the upper 1/3 of the ear and holding it between your thumb and
forefinger. Brush the long hairs back out of your way, and deal only with the
tips at this time. Take your thumb nail and slide it up until you reach the edge
of the ear. Cover the tip of the ear leather with your thumb nail so that it is
protected from accidentally being cut. Using the small straight scissors , cut
straight across the tip to remove the pointed hair. If you use a curved scissor
as I do, then cutting straight across the tip will be very slightly curved.
Tip: If you are pinching the ear too
tightly it will have a jagged appearance when you release it. As you gain
experience, you will be able to judge this better, so for now just remember to
hold the tip of the ear with very little pressure and it will not look so jagged
when you let go:) As show breeders we want to soften the look. To do this we use
thinning scissors. Re-cutting the tips of the already cut hair using thinning
scissors gives a much improved appearance, not only to the ear tips, but the over
all coat. For people who want to do a more complete professional grooming we'll
come back to do more trimming lessons using the thinners in a little while. For
now let's move on to the fanny :)
To trim the fanny
on a Pom I usually turn the dog sideways so the head is to my left and
the rear is to my right hand (I am right handed, lefties will operate in
reverse) Taking your small straight scissors, or the curved ones, begin trimming in a
circular pattern around the anus. You may want to trim this area in a
circle the size of a quarter or as large as a silver dollar. Just clean
this area up real good so that there is no problem with any fecal matter
clinging to the coat. This is for the house pets only, as we do not want to
see "winkies" in the show ring! While you have your Pom turned to the
side you may want to trim the skirt to a length that is pleasing to you.
Just trim straight across and then if you like, round off the corners
making sort of a wide U shape.
With the Pom still
in this sideways stance you may wish to trim away some of the hair
underneath in the tummy region. For the show ring we like to make a nice inverted "V" with
the highest point somewhere in the center of the tummy area, blending
down & out towards the front and rear legs. The key to a tidy precision show
appearance is not to have any jagged edges. Everything is re-trimmed and
smoothed out using the thinning scissors. For pet owners the main goal
is neat, tidy, clean, so for that purpose feel free to trim away as much
or as little as you like to make the coat manageable for you. I
personally do not mind if my pet owners feel a need to take their Pom to
a groomer for a "lion cut" or "puppy cut" I prefer this option over a dirty
coat. Your Poms will be happier if they are clean and free of
itchy skin and mats which can pull and hurt.
If your dog has flaking dandruff
or other skin irritations you might want to think about using Revolution
topical treatment for dandruff mites. Cheylatella (also called
walking dandruff mites) may be present but
often not easily detected, even by a veterinarian. See where to buy at a
discount, on the tools & products page.
Again, these instructions
are intended for the pet owner but may contain information helpful to the new
show person. I will return to add to this page very soon. I'd like to add some
info on trimming the head coat ect. If you have any questions feel free to
contact me. Good luck!
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